Traditional with a twist is the signature of Sydney designer Jenet Zaiter. This up-and-coming name in bridal design is in demand among fashion insiders and celebrities such as Home and Away's Jodi Gordon. They call upon Zaiter for her considerable creative and technical skills, her personalised service (she's willing to do fittings at your place, which is a blessing for busy brides), and her ability to make traditional bridal couture that still feels contemporary and sexy. Part of her success lies in her intuitive interpretation of classic designs and her attention to the cut and fit of the garment.

"Fit is so important, especially with bridal and evening wear," says Zaiter, who works from a studio in her Bella Vista home. "Everyone's body is different so a perfect fit makes all the difference.

"I love to work closely with the bride to bring to life exactly what they envision," she says. "I want the dress to describe who they are, what they're like and what they love."

Zaiter's love has always been fashion. After completing a two-year Fashion Technology Certificate at TAFE, Zaiter spent the next seven years grading patterns at Cue in their Sydney studios, while also designing from home for family and friends. It was a 'dues paying' job that the designer says really paid off. "Although (grading can be) boring at times, it gave me great technical experience. When I started my own business, I got the opportunity to use those techniques and skills on my own designs," she says.

Zaiter's bridal and couture business has been going strong for nearly a decade. Her primary focus, is also her speciality: made-to-measure bridal and evening wear. It's not just all about one-off creations for special brides. Zaiter has also launched a sample range to help make sure brides have as much help coming up with their dream dress as possible.

"This collection is a great way to give brides ideas and inspire them," she says. The made-to-measure collection gives prospective clients a good indication of Zaiter's work and, she asserts, brides can either choose a design or use the sample range as a springboard to launch their own ideas.

"I feel like I'm entering a new era with my business," she says with excitement. "I want to bring something a bit different into the industry. Something that's exciting for brides."

This excitement is evident in Zaiter's most recent designs including a stunning duchesse silk gown with Swarovski beaded bodice, which is a new take on a classic princess-style wedding gown. She says: "With the low neckline at the back, it's actually quite a sexy dress, while still being very bridal, especially with the fullness of the skirt."

Attention to small details make a dress like this work. For example, her petticoats are a part of the dress, not two separate pieces as is the case in most other designs of this shape. The results are a marriage of tradition and daring, a combination that worked well for the bride it was made for, a young at heart bride who was creative and willing to take a risk.

"The neckline broadened her shoulders and the low, scooped back showed off her beautiful upper body," she explains.

Zaiter not only wants to make beautiful garments, she also wants to make gowns that make her clients look and feel gorgeous.

"I really want to work with the individual to complement her figure and design what will work for her. Sometimes that will involve a neckline that adds definition to a certain body shape or a dress design that makes a small woman appear taller," she says.

Going beyond the fit and what flatters, Zaiter's own fashion philosophy is simple. "Everyone wants to wear something they feel comfortable in, and they want to know that what they're wearing suits them. It's more important for a wedding dress to be like that than any other dress a woman will ever wear."

Zaiter also feels strongly that the personality of the bride should shine through in the design of the dress. She cites an example of a gown that she made for a bridesmaid who wanted something classic with a contemporary flourish.

"To add something different and give the dress an edge I did a silk georgette ruffle wrap in lemon," the designer explains. "It looks like its part of the dress so it can be worn with the wrap or without. I love it!"

Small finishing details can also help bring out the bride's joie de vivre. A georgette ruched bodice and a full circle skirt was the perfect match for a feminine bride who told Zaiter that she wanted a dress that also felt fun to wear (pictured, top centre). "It's a very feminine shape with the [ruched] bodice," says Zaiter. "And it's both comfortable and flattering. Plus, you can definitely celebrate in this dress with its gorgeous big full circle skirt."

Classic but contemporary is Zaiter's forte. A pretty pink silk gown with a full flowing skirt is topped with a beaded lace bodice and pink roses (pictured, above right), a look that is at once sexy and demure. Zaiter is also skilled at making bridesmaid dresses that complement the bride's gown - without being too 'matchy-matchy' - by echoing a small detail in the bride's gown to achieve a coherent, interesting look.

Zaiter says that brides today are interested in both tradition and trends. She keeps her finger on the international pulse and pays attention to her brides. "Traditional colours like silk white will never go out of style and brides are gravitating towards that colour at the moment."

Brides are also finding new ways to turn up the volume on their big day looks. "I find brides are staying away from full skirts and are instead looking to fabrics like georgette to give shape to the body while still allowing movement. It's a romantic and softer look." Ruching, she says, is au courant and Zaiter notes a shift towards lace for brides.

"For a timeless look, I go for a beautiful French lace," she says. "Crochet lace is also a great for those who want something different."

For bridesmaids, Zaiter says neutral tones like golds and beiges are popular. Adds Zaiter, "If they want to add colour, they do it with the accessories and flowers."

Enquiries, call Jenet Zaiter on 0418 276 622.